2.4GHz
All of our gliders and electro-gliders are 2.4GHz friendly.
Fuselages and fuselage pods are glass composite reinforced with carbon fiber in the stress areas only. This type of construction do not interfere with radio signal reception.
Ailerons
All of our gliders having wing span 1.2M-up and having wings equipped with aileron (flaps) have control surfaces marked on the wings - not cut. The ailerons have to be separated from the wing by the modeler. Separating the ailerons from the wing is a very simple task and takes only a few minutes to do, because wings have built into their structure balsa strips. How this is done: First you will need to make two short cuts on both sides of the aileron (for this operation it's best to use balsa saw blade). Then you place the metal edge on the marked line (connecting both side cuts you just made) Now using hobby knife (blade # 11) make a few strokes holding the knife against the metal edge. By doing that you are cutting through the balsa strip that is molded inside the wing cores. After ailerons are separated from the wing they are already prefaced with the balsa. To finish them you will use sanding block and bevel the aileron face surface in an angle. This allows aileron to deflect down after it's hinge-taped to the wing. You don't have to be an expert builder to do that.
Spoilers
Modelers who fly RES sailplanes have always had their own preferences about installing spoilers and their size. The most common and simple method is: - cut (appropriate size) rectangular piece of veneer in upper wing sheeting - remove Styrofoam from inside, clear to the bottom sheeting. - box opening around with thin balsa ( 3mm thickness) using epoxy Balsa box will connect the upper and lower wing sheeting, providing extra reinforcement to the weakened part of the wing. - from thin plywood cut rectangular spoiler that will fit in the box opening flash and hinge it to the front edge of the opening. - mount servo to the bottom sheeting inside of the spoiler box. - Use long servo arm ( servo arm is used to push the spoiler flap up) Attached is a drawing of the Thermic-RES showing suggested size and spoiler placement; also you will find a drawing (High Aspect-RES) that shows extra detail D-D of the spoiler servo placement.
Sling Shot
Attached you will find some pictures showing sling shot launching and pictures showing how the sling shot launcher is made. The sling shot launcher is made of ~5 - 7-meters (15-20 feet) of surgical tubing, same size as used for typical 2-meter High-Start systems. One end of the tube is finished with a small loop just big enough to hook the glider, second end of the tube is finished with a large loop that allows to be securely attached to the metal or wooden stake. Launching the glider is very simple. After the wooden or metal stake with attached sling is securely pounded into the ground, set all controls on the glider to the neutral position. Hook the sling to the glider and walk back stretching the line. (Normally during launching tube is stretched approx. 3+ times its original length). Holding the glider at shoulder height (same as shown on the picture) release the glider at the same time holding the elevator slightly UP. After releasing the glider it will accelerate very fast, disconnect itself and it should go straight up. Some controls may be applied to make perfect straight trajectory up, after the glider reaches certain heights, level the glider and begin soaring. It's good to try a few launches with less stretch of the sling first, then after you feel more comfortable you can try to stretch the sling harder. Please remember that very few gliders can stand-up to the stress forced during sling shot launching. So I do not recommend using this method of launching for just any glider. Acceleration of the glider during launch is very rapid so is very important that all control connections have "0" loose especially the elevators, any loose my initiate flutter that may be destructive to the glider during launch. Also please remember that the tow-hook and its position is different than a typical tow-hook.
Antenna 72MHz
The best is to run the receiver antenna wire outside. Drill a small whole in the back of the fuselage pod and pull antenna wire out. You can attach the antenna to the bottom of the boom using clear narrow Scotch tape.